How to buy a BOAT - To buy USED or To buy NEW?

If my budget is less than $10K for a used boat, and we want a bay or flat bottom boat, how old should I go to and what brands are the safest to deal with? I am thinking 2003 and have been looking at Carolina Skiff models 19 foot DLX for 11 people max. I do not want to go out in the ocean with this boat and there is a lot of shallow water in Wilmington NC area so something like this would be perfect. I'm worried that the used motors are going to bite me on this deal. What motors are best Suzuki 90 4 stroke, Yamaha, Johnson, ??? If I do compression check then what is a good number for this on each cylinder? Is 300 hours a lot of time for a motor? Is it bad for the boat to dtay i nthe water and only come out once per year for cleaning? If I can buy a 2009 Skif for $16K and a 2003 Skiff for $10K which should I choose if it is apples to apples compared?How to buy a BOAT - To buy USED or To buy NEW?
If you go used, I'd stick with johnson/evinrude, only cause I know they are all reliable and well-supported as to spare parts and service. merc and yammy are probably a close second and third. That's a matter of opinion kinda like Ford or Chevy.



4-stroke is heavier and more complex than a 2-stroke, meaning higher acquisition cost, less speed for the same horsepower and higher repair bills. It's also more fuel efficient, cleaner-running and quieter (above the waterline).



If you want to just climb aboard, turn the key and go, get a new boat with a four-stroke merc or yammy, or a 2-stroke evinrude e-tec. Lot of people like the new Honda 4-strokes, I don't know anything about 'em. Myself, I'm partial to the e-tec. It's a 2-stroke with the emmissions and fuel economy of a 4-stroke.



As far as hours on a motor -- the biggest problem most boat motors encounter is idle time, which is hard on any machinery. 50 hours/year is better than 10 hours/year. Properly maintained, there is really no upper limit on the service life of an outboard.



Compression: difference between cylinders is more important than raw numbers. You want to see less than 5 or 7% between the lowest and highest, otherwise walk away.



If it's on a trailer, as the owner to start it for you. If he does so without hooking it up to water, walk away. You know the motor's been abused -- it only takes about 30 seconds of dry running to damage a water pump impeller.



Good compression starts quick, both warm and cold, idles, accelerates and cruises good, is about all you can ask for in a used outboard. Some basic maintenance will keep 'em running for a long, long time (I run a '79 evinrude), but repairs are pricy unless you do 'em yourself.



On the hull -- a few are all-composite, but most have fiberglass-over-wood floors, decks %26amp; transom. Replacing floors %26amp; decks is hot messy work, but the transom is a real headache. Any soft spots in the floor/deck, either walk away or prepare for some [sarcasm] real fun [/sarcasm].



Motor tilted up, grasp the lower unit and give a good shake -- torque in every direction. Don't try to tear it off the boat -- just look for any flex in the transom. Any soft spots, just walk away.



Used boat, you won't be so unhappy every time it bumps into the dock, or you chip some gelcoat off with the anchor...yada yada yada. But, you'll have to spend more time %26amp; money on upkeep.How to buy a BOAT - To buy USED or To buy NEW?
You seem to be on the right track already with mentioning having the boat "checked out".



Buying used (if you take your time and really check things out) is smart. There are very good values to be had in used boats. By far, most first time buyers purchase new boats, while experienced boaters most often buy used boats. Now think about that for a moment - there has to be a good reason for this.



Experienced boaters know that there is better value dollar for dollar in many used boats than new ones. They also know quality in a boat when they see it. They know what its like to take a big hit in depreciation, (ie: that 2009 Skiff for $16 will only be worth about $12K the minute you take it off the lot).

There is great financial value and tremendous pleasure of owning a boat with no boat payments.



Just two topics of caution however:

1. Don't make the mistake (so many do) of equating low hour meter readings with good engine condition. In the real world, low engine hours means very little because running or not; engines deteriorate over time. Engines that are little used are often in worse condition for the lack of use. Marine engines deteriorate rapidly.



Despite all the truths you hear about "salt" water being so bad - Fact is, that doesn't make "fresh" water good. All boats float in a very corrosive fluid: water! (Chemists don't refer to water as the "universal solvent" for no reason.) Add to the corrosive effects of "salt" and the effects of hot and cold, sunlight, ice, snow, acid rain and the rough conditions of lakes and bays with all the stuff humans and factories dump into it; and well, boats simply float in a very hostile environment, a factor that should make getting the very best quality boat for the money your primary consideration.

2. You mention the 2003 Skiff - so, keep in mind that low engine hours are really meaningless, therefore, what is?

Time! The amount of time that the motor has sat in the boat, either on the water, or on a trailer after the boat is used. The average time between major marine egine repairs is around 6-7 years. However, good boats with bad engines can still turn out to be a very good buys as long as you know what you are buying and you are comparing price differentials against both new and other comparable quality used boats.



There are two live aboard boaters in my Marina (for example) that make a pretty good living buying good quality boats with clapped out engines. They of course, rebuild or replace the engine and the new owner gets a good quality vessel with a great engine that is ready to go for another 6 - 7 years.

While used boats can represent good value, this is true only up to a point. The problem with some boats once they get beyond a certain point is "deferred" maintenance. It is an unfortunate fact of life that many boat owners cut a lot of corners when making repairs, additions or improvements.



Most often, once the glitz, glitter, and gloss has faded, the owners take less and less interest in keeping the vessel "ship shape" - especially when it comes to mechanical and electrical "stuff".



So, in a used boat - an easy way to determine how the boat has been treated - is simply to look for tell-tell signs of jury-rigging and temporary repairs that were never made perminent.



I live full time aboard my boat, and here at the Marina and around the docks, we often laugh when anyone makes reference to repairs always costing "double what they thought" it would. I don't know why we laugh, it is not funny, and no one is kidding or exaggerating.

So... just be wary of a vessel with excessive amounts of deferred maintenance, temporary repairs, or jury-rigging.



Last, but certainly not least... DON'T EVER BUY ANY BOAT - NEW OR USED -

1. Without having the engine and electrical checked out by a mechanic.

2. Taking an "on the water" test run that puts the boat through all its paces (don't baby it) and take your own mechanic if at all possible.



Happy %26amp; Safe Boating!